Kynance Cove has been on my list of ‘must visit places’ for a while now. It’s even reached a high spot on my ‘Cornish Summer Bucket List for 2017’ and we’ve been waiting for a couple of weeks now for a really sunny day to come around so that we could go.
Today, for the first time all week, the sun popped its head back through the clouds, so we grabbed our chance and hopped in the car. The sat nav told us it was only 36 minutes away. 36 minutes away yet I’ve never. You’ll see in a few pictures time why I’m kicking myself now.
I’m sure I must have been to Kynance Cove at some point in my childhood. My feet have explored more of this county than I can even remember. But there was something so new to me about coming here and if I have visited before, its long escaped my memory. As we drove down the bumpy road and across the cow grates to the car park, the ocean horizon started to peek over the grass in the distance.
We turned into the car park and the hills and cliff edges started to come into view. The harsh coastline reminded me more of the cliffs you’d find in North Cornwall. The cliffs here seemed rugged, weathered, hard. There were stories rolling off their edges of storms and wild seas and the surrounding grassy land, although clearly maintained by the National Trust and farmers, had a wild untouched feeling about it.
As soon as we pulled into the main car park, we were greeted by the roaming free cows. They are there in their masses, wandering about and lounging between all the vehicles, wandering down the hills and lying along the cliff edge. It really was a sight to see. They also seemed really friendly and approachable and didn’t mind having their pictures taken by all the passers by and they didn’t mind people getting up so close to them.
I don’t often say wow. After all, I live in Cornwall and I live by the sea already. I’m lucky enough to sit on a beach every day of the year if I chose and I get to see rugged coast lines and beautiful cliff paths every day on my drive to work. But oh boy did I say wow when we started our walk.
We read online that there was coast path walk that would take you down to the cove and a little cafe. So, we planned our walk to include a stop off for lunch.
The car park attendant noted that we had a toddler and told us that there were two routes down to the cafe. One is called the ‘low tide route’ and is a rocky descent down to the cove, with crumbling steps and grassy banks, but beautiful views. The other is the high tide route with views a little further away but is more ideal for buggies and for wheelchairs.
We opted for the low tide route and we couldn’t recommend it enough. Our toddler walked the whole way and although we had to keep her by our side at all times, she did so well on the rocky terrain and the steep steps. The walk down to the Cove is so idyllic. Around every turn it gets more and more striking and the end result is beautiful, beyond words.
We took so many moments out just to stop, sit and admire the views. Along the way are lots of little benches and seated grassy patches where you can stop to have a rest or a run around.
Poor Evie and Aitan had to keep stopping and waiting for me to catch up, because I couldn’t help but try and capture every angle of the cliffs on my camera.
The views certainly made the perfect backdrop for a very rare picture of all of us. Something we’re trying to get more of. I am always behind the camera and I really struggle to remember to include myself in pictures.
When we reached the bottom of the coast path, we were lucky enough to get onto the sand just as the tide had started to lip against the rocks. At high tide this route gets completely blocked off and even when we were stood there we had to wait for a few minutes and time the waves rolling in before we could make our run across.
Just off the beach and up some steps sits the cafe. The eco-friendly café was so cute. It sells Cornish pasties, fresh sandwiches, baguettes, homemade cakes and cream teas along with beach goods. I imagine in summer, it gets extremely busy here. We were really lucky to get a picnic bench close to the front, where we had amazing views of the cove below.
We stopped off for a little light lunch in the sun and bought some sandwiches and shared a cheeky bottle of Polgoon Cider. The sandwiches were really delicious. I opted for a brie and cranberry and it was so fresh and tasty.
We sat here for such a long time. It was so lovely to feel like tourists for the day and to just relax and take things slow in such a beautiful place.
After lunch we hopped down to the beach so that Evie could collect some pebbles and so that we could hike the opposite side of the cliffs.
Apparently at low tide there is quite a big stretch of sand in the cove, as well as towering rock stacks and caves to explore. Next time we come back, we’ll definitely time it a little bit better so that we can see these for ourselves. We read online that the caves have names such at The Parlour and The Drawing Room, so we’re really curious to see what they’re like.
While we were walking along we heard someone mention that Poldark was filmed here. With its pure white sands, turquoise waters and stunning cliffs, you can see why it would make the perfect spot to film. Apparently the beach doubles up as Poldark’s beloved Nampara. We’re going to keep our eyes peeled for it the next time we watch that show.
Just off the beach is another set of steep steps that have been carved into the cliff. These took us up to a large grassy area where we could sit and look back on where we had come from.
Every angle of the walk was so picturesque. Even the way the crumbling steps are carved out of the hills is impressive. It was so hard to not be constantly snap happy with the camera.
We decided to climb up the cliffs to the right of the cafe so we could get a closer look at the island that Evie name ‘seagull island’. We saw people swim across to it while we were sat up here, but whether or not you can climb it, we’re not sure. The edges of the cliff looked a bit too rugged to climb with bare hands.
This section of Kynance Cove was my favourite part. The views from here were the best and it was such a wide area to sit. It was the perfect spot for little ones to run around, providing they are kept an eye on, and would probably make the best spot for a picnic.
Aitan really loved getting to hike along some of the more ‘scary’ parts of the cliff, but I loved sitting down with Evie, playing ‘eye spy’ and trying to teach her more about the coast, the sea and what wildlife you’ll find here.
We loved this little spot on the island so much. Evie loved it too although she did get very muddy because she kept trying to roll down the hill.
After a little sit down we decided to climb up to the top of the hill that was behind us. It might not look big in the photos but if you squint and look in the distance you’ll see a white blob. That’s two people coming down the hill so you can imagine how tall it is in real life.
I was so impressed with Evie for reaching the top without being carried. Even I struggled to hike up and did get slightly out of breath trying to catch up with them, but the views from the top were amazing.
At the top and just beyond the rocks, the hill dipped slightly. The rocks were formed in such a way that in this particular area, they gave you complete shelter from any wind. The air was perfectly still and we found several remnants of old camp fires in this little area.
We both agreed that it would make the perfect spot to wild camp one night and we’re sure that many other people have already thought the same thing. How magical would it be to spend the night here under the stars?
Unfortunately we couldn’t stay much longer after we reached the summit. Evie started to get tired and grumpy, so we made the long trek back to the car. This time we took the high tide route and walked past our future dream house. It was such a shame to see that this building was uninhabited.
We’re guessing its derelict because of the crumbling rocks behind it and the unsafe terrain, which is such a shame because being just off the beach, it’s an idyllic place to have a home.
We were so sad to go back to the car, but the turquoise waters and stunning cliffs have made us want to come back again really soon. I’m sure you can see why!
Have you ever been to Kynance Cove before? What do you think? Let us know in the comments below.